Plant Cover Crops

Learning about the benefits of planting cover crops.

Nitrogen from Cover Crops

Benefits of a Pure Stand of Cover Crop Red Clover

December 28, 2020

by Dustin Johnson

I recently plowed under a successful stand of red clover in an organic wheat field on my farm near Kokomo, Indiana. I have grown alfalfa and mixed stands of hay as a cash crop for my entire career. Five years ago we began experimenting with organic grain production to try something new and take advantage of the synergies between organic grain farming and our existing hay business.

This was my first experience growing a pure stand of red clover. The main goal for the stand was nitrogen fixation for next year’s organic corn crop.

Along the way, I also gained a forage harvest, weed suppression, and soil health benefits. Please read further for a more in-depth discussion of my experience and the benefits that this time-proven practice can bring to your farm.

FROST SEEDING

On February 21st, I broadcasted 15 lbs/acre of red clover seed into my dormant wheat field. Frost seeding should take place near the end of winter when a period of nightly freezing and thawing is anticipated. The ground was frozen enough to hold up the tractor and the field contained a light dusting of snow. This helped me see the spread pattern of the clover seed.

Red clover is my personal first-choice when frost seeding: The seed is relatively inexpensive, clover can thrive underneath a crop canopy, it can be harvested for dry hay, and it works! Red clover seeds are heavy and round with a high level of seedling vigor. They naturally sort through material on top of the soil and fall into the “honeycomb” of soil cracks created by frost. This is the same process by which red clover stands naturally persist on road sides and barn lots.

If grazing is your primary goal, plant an improved species such as Bearcat or Gallant. White and berseem clover can also be successfully frost seeded for forage use. If you plan to exclusively grow it as a cover crop, sweetclover and mammoth red clover are also good choices.

Around the time my wheat broke dormancy, the red clover seedlings emerged. The frost seeded clover scavenged sunlight that filtered through the rows of wheat, but grew more slowly than the wheat and stayed beneath the wheat canopy. The presence of red clover in the wheat field did not interfere with the wheat’s ability to grow or be harvested. From the road, the wheat looked like a normal wheat field. Only after harvest was a carpet of green growing clover revealed.

FORAGE HARVEST

Once the wheat was harvested and the canopy opened to the red clover, it grew very quickly. I mowed the red clover for hay about a month after wheat harvest on August 19th. The clover was nearing full-bloom and the weather was right. The hay was mostly red clover, but also contained a few weeds and about 4” of wheat stubble. This medium-quality hay was the most fragrant, sweet-smelling hay that I have ever baled! Yield was also impressive: 2.3 dry tons/acre in a single harvest. Even priced modestly, this hay harvest was a significant boost to the profitability of my wheat crop.

COVER CROP VALUE

After taking a cutting of hay in August, I let the summer regrowth accumulate for a green manure to plow down. The regrowth was vigorous and thick. Weeds that had been present in the growing wheat were mowed before going to seed by the wheat and hay harvests. Newly germinated weeds could not compete with the established red clover. This certified organic field was nearly weed-free in late summer.

The clover bloomed again in September and was a haven for wildlife and pollinators.

In early December, I moldboard plowed this land and the red clover again showed its value. The clover was still actively growing and removing water from the soil. Areas of the field that did not have a good stand of clover were noticeably wetter. The clover taproots penetrated the plowing depth and prevented the wetter clay soils from “slabbing.” The pictures below show the loose friable soil created by the clover roots compared to an area of shallow-rooted grass sod plowed at the field edge.

Note the difference in the above plowed soil (with clover) vs. the soil below (no clover).

Those same roots will provide a soil health benefit below the plow layer as well. The clover taproots penetrated the soil much deeper than the plowing depth. The roots will help prevent a plow pan from holding water when they decompose this winter and drainage occurs in the old root channels.

The red clover has now begun to decompose within the soil profile and will be releasing nitrogen for my organic corn crop next spring. University sources estimate that a successful stand of red clover that is terminated after blooming can release 70 to 120 lbs of N per acre.

Now is the time to make preparations for frost seeding clover on your farm. Whether your goal is nitrogen fixation, improved pasture quality, or soil health, frost seeding clover this winter is an easy and cost-effective way to achieve big results.

Cover Crops in Wisconsin – Full Speed Ahead!

This cover crop field was ready for harvest in late September 2012.

I took a new management position in May of 2012 with Wisconsin based Legacy Seeds, Inc.

While my main responsibility lies in working with alfalfa and forages I also was pleased to find out that there were several folks in Wisconsin that were using cover crops!  Well, you would figure that I’d get involved more with cover crops in the Badger state, and I have.

Wisconsin Cover Crop Meetings

In February 2012 I conducted two cover crops meetings in the Fox Lake, WI area with over 75 producers present. The purpose of these meetings were to teach farmers about how cover crops can work in their farming operations.  I was very pleased with the outcome of those meetings as over 10,000 acres were planted on farms that were represented at those meetings.

In July I held three more cover crop meetings in Eau Claire, Waupaca, and Brillion, WI. All combined, there were over 150 farmers present and I’m confident that there were at least 30,000 acres of cover crops planted by those farmers.

While I don’t have figures of how many cover crops were planted in Wisconsin, I think there were as many as 250,000. Many of those acres were after wheat was harvested and a surprising number after corn and soybeans.

Cover Crops for Forage & Manure Management

Feed was one reason so many acres were planted. The severe drought has created a forage shortage.

But many farmers planted their cover crops because they want healthier soils and better production.  Still others planted because they want to hold onto the nutrients from their manure.  Whatever the reason, cover cropping is alive and well in Wisconsin – and growing.

You can click on the pictures below to see a larger image of each.

The Oats, Appin Turnip and Cowpea combination should make excellent haylage for the Wisconsin dairy market.

The nodules on the Austrian Winter Peas were multiple and large. This field will be planted to corn next year and it sure appears that a good amount of nitrogen will be in the soil and available for that corn crop.

This field of Austrian Winter Peas and Radish east of Green Bay, WI was planted after wheat in severe drought conditions. Thankfully some later rains came to get the mixture up and going.

Inoculating Cover Crop Legumes Pays Off

Several farmers have asked me why they need to spend an “extra” 4-6 cents per pound to inoculate the legume seed they are planting for producing nitrogen with their cover crops.  I get asked this especially about Austrian Winter Peas and Cowpea.

However, if you are planting Crimson Clover, Berseem Clover, Kura Clover, Alsike, Hairy Vetch, Sunn Hemp, or Medium Red Clover it’s just as important inoculate!  Why?  I’ll list a few reasons below:Inoculated peas are significantly better at producing nitrogen

  • Legumes are planted as cover crops most specifically to produce nitrogen.
  • Legume seed is relatively expensive; if it does NOT produce nitrogen, then it is exceptionally expensive.
  • The inoculant is a species specific bacteria that allows that plant to fix nitrogen.  If there are not enough bacteria there is limited nitrogen production from the legume plants.
  • A healthy legume cover crop can produce nearly 200 units of nitrogen
  • Even if you have produced a similar crop in your field within a two year time period, it still pays to inoculate each year since many of the bacteria prove to be “weak” and unable to perform like a healthy and vigorous bacteria.
  • If inoculating Peas or Cowpea you will need to do a “seedbox” treatment.  There are not yet inoculants that can be pre-applied that will allow you to have healthy bacteria. Therefore, most inoculant companies suggest putting the inoculant on within hours of putting the seed in the ground.

Be sure to get very good coverage on all of the seeds.

Do not hurry. Each seed needs coverage to actually be inoculated. I know that sounds silly, but I have seen many fields and plots where only some of the pea or vetch  plants were performing well.  The ones that looked poor had no nodules.

Many companies sell pre-inoculated clover seed.  If yours does not, then either find another supplier or purchase the correct inoculant from your current seed supplier.  Do not waste a great opportunity to produce as much nitrogen as possible. It is  less expensive to produce nitrogen than it is to purchase it.

A well inoculate Austrian Winter Pea nodule will be pink inside like the one above.

This photo shows a mixture of well inoculated and poorly inoculated Austrian Winter Pea plants. It is important to inoculate each seed with the nitrogen fixing bacteria.

 

 

Cover Crops in the Great Plains – a view from a long time cover crop user- Part 2

In this cover crop post I again quote Paul Conway from Kansas, who is giving his input on cover crops in the Great Plains. In this article, Paul shares his experience with Austrian winter peas, field peas, chickling vetch, and hairy vetch.

Dave,

Austrian Winter Peas: I have limited and disappointing experience with Austrian Winter Peas.  They always winter kill and they must be planted at an inconvenient time.  It seems that the areas where they do well do not follow a simple geographical line.  Austrian Winter Peas do very well about 60 miles south of me in central and southern Kansas.  Ironically, they seem to do fine in the Nebraska panhandle, which is much colder than we are. I think consistent snow cover makes the difference.

Field Peas: also know as Canadian field peas or forage peas. I’ve grown these in early fall with oats and forage radish. I don’t know how much nitrogen they fix but they do winterkill by early winter –  mine haven’t died yet – probably consistent lows in the middle teens will do it.

I also plant them in early spring the same time as oats, killing them for June planted cash crops.  Mowing after flowering will effectively kill peas.  Where peas shine is in mixes and in cool climates.

The pea/oat or pea/triticale is excellent for haylage or silage. These mixes have the same benefits for livestock farmers as the soybean/summer grass mixes.

In much of the Midwest and east, double cropping is possible, oat/peas followed by soybean/milo or sorghum-sudan.  Further north, the oat/pea mixes would mature too late.  In that regard, I think that field peas could be managed as a summer annual (like soybeans) in the Great Lakes states, upstate New York, Pennsylvania, and New England.

Peas can handle routine summer temperatures in the low-mid 80s. Peas can be grazed. Peas aren’t shade tolerant so they don’t do well when sown into row crops.  Frankly outside the mixes I think the clovers may be more versatile.

Chickling Vetch: Also known as “AC Greenfix.” It will fix nitrogen faster both in the fall (it winterkills about the same time as the peas) and in the spring.  AC Greenfix seed is more expensive and harder to plant due to it’s shape.

Hairy Vetch: As you know, hairy vetch is the strongest nitrogen fixer among the annuals.  Hairy vetch easily fits into vegetable rotations. I have seen two foot vine growth and numerous fat nodules on vetch in early-mid April after a mildly wet fall and an early spring.  It will be harder to fit into field crop rotations, especially corn-soybeans.

Here the optimum time to plant hairy vetch is September, but it can be planted as late as mid October.  It needs minimal soil contact which isn’t a problem in a normal fall. A dry September/October, like I had this year, is a problem.

I know that you have some experience with flying in hairy vetch into maturing corn or soybeans.  Another option is to plant it very late (mid-late November) and hope it doesn’t germinate until the soil warms up in late winter-early spring.   I don’t think people realize how versatile hairy vetch can be.  In the northern areas suited for field peas (see above) hairy vetch could be managed as a summer annual. [I have seen hairy vetch flower, drop seed which stays dormant during a hot dry summer – Dave’s EMPHASIS HERE – this is why I caution growers about Hairy Vetch.]  When the weather cools down in late August the vetch seed sprouts.  It is still warm then through September and early October with temperatures similiar to the Great Lakes states and New England in the summer.  So why couldn’t vetch be planted in early summer in these areas?

Years ago I planted hairy vetch in April between wide rows of vegetables just to see what would happen.  I remember lots of growth by July, despite a hot dry summer. The soil under the vetch was cool and moist.  The vetch did not grow enough to fix much nitrogen by May but it may have fixed enough nitrogen for mid-summer planted crops.

In 2012 I will plant hairy vetch and other vetches (purple) in the spring and record how they do.

Finally, new cultivars of hairy vetch come out which may have promise.  I will try a new variety called Purple Bounty, which is supposed to mature two weeks earlier but with less winter hardiness.

 

Nutrient Scavenging Cover Crops – How much good are they doing? It depends.

Meet the Cover Crop Scavengers

Over the years I have worked with cover crops I have recommended that producers use “scavengers” like Annual Ryegrass, turnips, cereal rye,  winter barley, oats,  and cover crop radishes.  These cover crops do a very good job of capturing excess nitrogen and other nutrients and keeping them from reaching the ground water or running off with surface water.  When the nutrients are scavenged they are available for the subsequent crop.

Most of these scavengers are “luxury consumers” of nitrogen and a few of them are also “luxury consumers” of phosphorous.  These are ideal to use on land where manure is applied.  They also work very well when grown with a legume like crimson clover, hairy vetch, chickling vetch, and Austrian winter peas.

However, if  limited amounts of nitrogen are available how will these scavengers perform?

The answer: not as well.

My answer is subjective but based on observations that I will show you via some photos.

 

Observation 1

It is easy to see where the manure was knifed in in this field. But how much more N is being taken up where it is darker green? We'll be doing tissue tests soon to determine that.

The first observation is where hog manure was knifed in after wheat had been harvested. The photo shows that the cover crop (Annual ryegrass and Appin turnips) looks considerably darker where the manure had been applied.  We will soon be taking tissue samples to see what difference there is in the amount of N, P, and K are in the plants.  We also anticipate a future post showing a root pit view of the root growth difference (if any).
 
 
 
 

Observation 2

The "yellow" strips are pretty obvious in the cover crops in this seed corn field. It is not obvious where the corn rows were but I expect the lighter strips are above where the corn row had been.

The next observation comes from a seed corn field in north western Indiana near Demotte in Jasper county.  The main area of difference in N uptake is found where the male corn rows had been cut out this summer after the female rows had pollinated.  The difference is color was not as dramatic as it was in the previous situation but there was a clear difference in color and the amount of growth (considerably more developed) of the cover crop.
 
 
 
 

Observation 3

The left half of this photo had 35#/acre of N but had no legume to feed the radish. The right half of the photo shows the significant color and growth difference when radishes are grown with crimson clover (and the 35# N/acre).

The next field is near Edgerton in NW Ohio.  This field had three different applications being trialed.  One area had a crimson clover and GroundHog radish mixture, another area had an Austrian Winter Pea and GroundHog Radish mixture.  In between these mixtures was a strip of Tillage cover crop radishes with no legume but with around 35 units of nitrogen applied (the ~35 # of N was applied across the whole field).  If you attend many cover crop meetings you will hear speakers tell you to apply 35-50 units of N on radishes if they are sown without a legume or without manure applied.  After seeing this field I believe we are underestimating what kind of N we need to apply for “best” results as the radish only strip had considerably smaller radishes with much less tuber growth and more “yellow leaf”.    The area with the crimson clover/GroundHog Radish Mix was by far the darkest green and had the largest radish growth.  However, even though the peas did not look as impressive as the crimson clover, the radish growth was significant and much darker green than the radish area grown without any legume.

Observation 4

Not only does the crimson clover add nitrogen to the soil it also greatly enhances the soil structure. The soil on the left came from where there was only radishes planted. The soil on the right had crimson clover and radishes mixed together.

Another observation from this field was that where the radishes were grown with the crimson clover the soil had a much improved structure over the soil where only radishes were grown.  The massive amounts of crimson clover roots (with an exceptional amount of nodules on them by the way) gave the soil a much better texture.  See a very descriptive video here.  These soils are “Williams County Clays” or “NW Ohio clays” and are well known for their tightness and poor drainage.  As the farmer Ryan Sanders said after seeing the results of this experiment… “I will never plant radishes alone again.”